Wuhan Duck Neck
This food is a little bit bonkers, but I found it pretty
delicious. Me and some work mates were on holiday in Suzhou during mid-Autumn festival
last year in Suzhou (China), which is a city just north of Shanghai. The
streets were heaving with Chinese holiday makers, taking a break from their
tough work ethic to tread the streets of what is, with just a soupcon of poetic
license, known as the Venice of the east. I saw there one of the common street
food sellers peddling her wares on a pretty little street called Ping Jiang Lu.
I couldn’t tell what she was barbecuing, but I thought it looked like
sausage-you can imagine my excitement at having found barbecued sausages that
didn’t look like the sludgy red little sugar laced Taiwanese nightmares so unfortunately
ubiquitous to China. I trundled over and bought some, she asked “la de ma?” (do
you want it spicy?), to which I replied “dui” (emphatically yes). I bought the
food and took a bite. What’s that? A crunch? Yes, the crunchy resistance of
barbecued cartilage, the tasty crispiness of duck skin and the delicious smokiness
of the barbecue itself. Not what I was expecting-an extremely common occurrence
when getting food in China-but a very tasty snack nevertheless. I can imagine
it would be a great spicy accompaniment to a glass of ice cold beer. Having
enjoyed Suzhou so much last year I now live there and work at EF with my
girlfriend Celia. It was here that one of the Chinese staff named Jojo reliably
informed me that the streets of a city called Wuhan in Hubei province are
virtually paved with barbecued duck neck. The alleys are nigh on permeated with
the neck laced smoke of the multifarious barbecues. I shall endeavour to visit
this place one day and chomp upon the necks of many of these unfortunate
creatures.
I
wish now to give a quick explanatory coda to this description. As an Englander
and being familiar with breeds such as the Mallard I would expect a duck neck
to be disappointingly short. However, the ducks in China have necks more akin
to that of a goose, they are good and long and thus are able to provide more
than adequate sustenance as a snack. I thought this was a necessary explanation
as I did not wish you to denigrate the nutritional capacity of the
aforementioned piece of Chinese tapas (or xiao chi if you prefer-pronounced
sh-aow chu).
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