Thursday 3 January 2013

Malatang or pick and mix soup


It's been a couple of weeks since my last post, but you know how it is, food to overeat, drink to overdrink as per usual at this time of year. Anyway, after writing my post about my favourite noodle joint I thought I should treat the more cosmopolitan food lovers out there to a description of another uniquely Chinese favourite of mine. This is something I don't believe will ever be successfully introduced here because of its complete disregard of anything even vaguely health and safety orientated, but there's a certain charm to China's somewhat ironically anarchic disregard for our kind of obsessively beauraucratic nit picking. Well, it does exist, but it's a lot easier to just ignore. Anyway, I digress.

The mysterious and steamy broth.

Today I want to tell you about Malatang, a lovely and cheap delight to be found on many a street corner in the Middle Kingdom. Malatang is a bit hard to translate as the 'mala' flavour doesn't really exist outside of East Asia, but it roughly translates as 'spicy and numbing soup'. Tang is simply the word for soup and mala means a spicy numbing flavour derivative of lots of Sichuan pepper and some other stuff (search me, perhaps one of my Chinese friends will leave a comment). The base of the food is a spicy and numbing stock and the rest is up to you. You'll recognise Malatang places from the massive metal cauldron belching out steam and the fridges full of various fresh and frozen Chinese things, anything from bean curd to squid to greens to those fried breadstick things you get (I saw you can buy them in China town in London now) to quail's eggs to... I could go on. What you do is go up, take a basket with a number on, fill up your basket with whatever you desire and give it to the nice man or woman by the cauldron. They then dump all your ingredients into an individual basket in the boiling brown stock of doom, which gets reused all day (possibly longer, I'll look into the possibility of carbon dating upon my return to China). To those of you who are squeamish, get over it, you're really missing out on a delicious stock that is at boiling point all day anyway, it's really delicious as long as the establishment hasn't gone too crazy with the mala flavour.

The fridges of magical Chinese ingredients.

This food takes a bit longer than some Chinese foods, so it could be anything up to six minutes, maybe even seven if it's busy. However, when it comes you're treated to an enormous bowl of soup for anywhere between about 5 and 20 kuai (50p-£2), you can usually then go and help yourself to as much fresh garlic, chilli, mala spice and chopped up spring onion as you like. It's a marvellous dish, essentially a pick and mix soup, it's also a great option if you're new to China as obviously you don't really need to be able to speak Chinese because it's all self-service. For anyone living in Hangzhou my favourite was opposite EF East school just south of Jiefang-Jianguo lu kou on the left, really nice broth and friendly staff, beer for 3 kuai a pop too, don't listen to the unbelievers, it's much better than the one by the hospital. Right, that's it for now, I hope I haven't made you too ravenous.

3 comments:

  1. And for the best Malatang in Shanghai... take the metro to West Yan'an Road, and keeping Tianshan Park on your right, head down Yan'an Lu. Halfway down the street is the best Malatang I found in Shanghai - the woman who runs it works from dawn til dusk, and I found the prices, remarkably, a little cheaper than other Malatang joints. You can ask to have the soup not so spicy as the mala flavour is added in after cooking. It's a little bit narrow in the shop but well worth the squeeze if you're after a filling, cheap and healthy meal.

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  2. Do you think there is any chance to find a store that sells Malatang in London? I have been dreaming of this since I left Shanghai last year! I always had this when I just got to China, as I could just take the ingredients myself and I didn't need to know their names. :D

    Btw, as far as I know, Ma (black and numbing) is Sichuan Pepper and La (red and fiery) is Hunan Pepper. Might be the other way around, but I remember my Chinese teacher once explaining this to me. :)

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    Replies
    1. That would be my dream, but I haven't found one yet. I wonder whether our health and safety laws would allow it. I also LOVE malatang, so let me know if you have any luck, although I am now in Japan! I have found a place that sells Lanzhou Lamien: 33 Cranbourn Street
      London
      WC2H 7AD
      It's pretty cheap by UK standards and looks like the real deal, although I haven't gotten around to trying it yet (I've walked past a few times). Thanks for the info about the meaning of Mala, always interesting to learn more!

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